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Over the past twelve months, my life has seen a rapid expansion of the notion of familiar. As unbelievable as this is to me, the things that define my daily life will soon be completely remote. In honor of the last ten days of my grant, I present you with ten reasons I’m going to miss this country.

Number 8) The Anthem(s)

Understanding Thailand is at least in part about understanding the major formal institutions: Buddhism, the King, and the Thai state. Since the 19th century, leaders have sought to unify the people behind these institutions, and the balance of power among the three has shaped the history of the country. The contemporary relationship between Thai people and these bodies explains some of the current turmoil. And just as our institutions in America come with a set of formal symbols—eagles, scrolls, a bell, profiles of founding fathers—that represent our identity, Thailand has its signifiers—Buddha images, royal seals, Thai traditional costumes, elephants, etc.—that supposedly represent national identity. 

The royal anthem and national anthem are a part of this body of signs. Every day at 8:00 am and 6:00 pm, the national anthem plays over the loud speakers, radios, and televisions of Thailand. According to law, people all across the country must stand as the song is played. Which means, if it’s 7:59 am and you are a very late teacher racing to get off the bus and through the school gates before they close, and you hear the first bars of the anthem, you had best freeze in place and join the rest of the country in paying respect. Here’s one translation of the lyrics:

Thailand unites flesh and blood of Thais.

Nation of the people; belonging to the Thais in every respect.

Long maintained [has been] the independence

Because the Thais seek, and love, unity.

Thais are peace-loving;

But at war we’re no cowards.

Sovereignty will not be threatened

Sacrificing every drop of blood for the nation

Hail the nation of Thailand, long last the victory, Chai Yo (Cheers).

The Thai royal anthem, as opposed to the national anthem, is the official song for the monarch. It finds its way into my daily life mostly by playing at the beginning of every movie. As the lights dim, audiences stand to listen to the song and watch a montage or short film highlighting the King and/or the Thai people. Above is a clip of the song from a movie theater in Bangkok. This is one of my favorite versions of the song, because I think the kids voices are absolutely adorable, and I think this particular short film gets at the measure of respect and emotion incited by the song rather well. The royal anthem also plays before ceremonies, concerts, musicals, plays, and at the opening and closing of business for television stations each day. However, the anthem is not without it’s teeth: in 2008 a Bangkokian was charged with violating Thailand’s lese-majeste laws for refusing to stand in the theater. 

<br /><br /> Speaking generally—and thus, not perfectly—I’d say that the symbols here are treated with a greater deal of reverence and respect than in America. When the royal anthem plays, it’s nothing like the begrudging recitation of the American pledge of allegiance I remember from high school calculus. I will miss the poignant moments in movie theaters, and the endearing ritual of my students scrambling to make it to their place in line before the anthem starts. Still, like any national symbol, these signs can act as reminders of the problems of a place as well as the virtues. The anthems, with their boasts and omissions, may also bring to mind the lack of free press, the struggling education system, or the hostile class divisions. What do you think? Watch the video, because a) it’s nice, and b) does a better job showing what I just inexpertly attempted to express.

 So, dear reader, that’s number 8 on the “things I’ll miss about Thailand” list. Any guesses for lucky number 7? 

Ten days left! Heck—I’ve almost finished my year here. My days are a blur of grading, gift-giving, eating lots, and saying goodbyes. I’m alternating soaking up time with people here with limited introspection and a little packing.

Over the past twelve months, my life has seen a rapid expansion of the notion of familiar. Ants as roommates, riding public transportation with monks, teaching, sweating every minute of every day: these things define my daily experience, and yet—as unbelievable as this is to me—will soon be completely remote. In honor of the last ten days of my grant, I’m tumbling (the proper verb is?…) ten reasons I’m going to miss this country. I’m going to go ahead and skip things like “temples,” “pad thai,” “golden stuff” and “really pretty flowers,” because what’s the fun in reinforcing tired mind pictures? 

So, without further ado, number ten:

10) Karaoke

Or, as it’s pronounced here “kell-ee-o-kee.”

Stateside, people have a criminally narrow idea of when and where karaoke should be performed. Americans seem to think that the only time to launch into a mangled and tone-deaf version of “Take Me Home Country Road” is late at night and after consuming copious amounts of alcohol, and even then, people parade their self-awareness and sense of irony as if it were some hall pass excusing juvenile behavior.

For shame. The people of Thailand know the truth. Karaoke is actually best approached with zero irony, total enthusiasm, and in a state of dead sobriety. It is most enjoyable at office functions—ideally in chucks of at least 2-3 hours—or while in small enclosed spaces, such as buses. The more synthesizer the better, and the most suitable songs for Karaoke are generally those made between 1975 and 1995. And no one, no matter how much they protest, claim cultural differences, or decry their own tone-deafness, is deemed unfit for singing. 

You’ll never be allowed to see the videos of me singing, but I’ve included a clip of some coworkers from a back to school faculty dinner. Hope you enjoy! 

“The bars are temples but the pearls ain’t free.” This is pretty much my everyday.